SPRING IS UPON US—WATCH WHAT YOU WEAR – PART 1

As we move further into the year, the season of Spring beckons us with a lot of hope, promise and excitement, and invites us to come out and see life afresh. Spring is a season when men’s dress becomes colorful, bold and less restricted by the conventional do’s and don’ts. Collar workers hit the office wearing hoodies and streetwear, whilst designers reimagine tailoring: change is permanent and everywhere. Spring infuses a new sense of life and color into style, and here is what I recommend men to wear this season:

Tailoring is here to stay:
Just when you thought tailoring is all over, it comes back right in. Wear a suit and you’ll be tagged as a C-suite executive or someone wanting to rock your first date or may be both. But there is always space for the unassuming two-piece, as tailoring takes the innovative route with oversized cuts (rather than form-fitted), daring and bold pastels and creams replacing navy and grey, and the tie ditched (for all the good reasons). What’s more encouraging is the shift of attention to print and embroidered floral pattern on bright colored shirts. The suit is making a comeback, but not the way we thought it would be.

Utility Wear
Utility:
Utility clothing pieces, surprisingly, has set the fashion scene on fire. Technical fabrics, work wear, fire-fighter jackets and commando-sole shoes, long known for their function than form, are fashion pieces this season. More and more people are seeing practicality in military-inspired clothes reconceptualized as designer gear. Now then, what do they hold for us?
You can’t but simply expect such outfits to be having a lot of pockets. Think about war core tactical gear, boiler suits and even cargo trousers that will add oomph to your mode of clothing. Now, you will not have any problems with these on if you’re a confident streetwear, and may be pull them off in style, but for the rest of us, I best feel this is a trend best embraced sneakily. You can pair wearable luggage and cargo trousers with civilian outfit like tees and sweatshirts. If you’re daring enough, then go for a utility vest such as an overshirt, again with regular tops and in pared back palette including beige, khaki and black—easy on the eyes. Thus, we see that both function as well as form seems to be the prerequisites for clothing trend this Spring. More to come in the subsequent part series of the blog.

BLEISURE WEAR IS HERE TO STAY!

For starters, the term ‘Bleisure’ is an intersection of two sub-sets: business and leisure. At this crossroad, more popular at the corporate and enterprise level, a new realm of fashion is calling out to you. Corporate business travelers fancy leisure as a form of motivation to stay focused on the goals and strategies to increasing client relationship and enhancing business prospects. And as such ‘Bleisure, as a concept, is managed by individual company policies that clearly state what attire to wear if you aren’t so sure which type of meeting you’re heading into: a business casual or more formal meeting.

There’s a lot of confusion around Blesiure wear. Only a fine line separates business and bleisure, and it is important to figure out what is acceptable wear for business and what you should probably leave at home. In another sense, it simply means how you’d replace one uniform (the suit) with another much less formal.
Take blazer, for instance—it is less formal than full suit when worn as a separate. However, it is to be noted that a double-breasted, gold-buttoned number is still not something to be tagged as smart-casual. Go for something that is more free-flowing and unstructured, that is, sans padding in the shoulder.

A trait of a good unstructured blazer is softness, made from pliable fabric stuff such as boiled or Merino wool—that’s essentially a cardigan, and actually some versions are knitted, or may be in jersey. They are undoubtedly more casual still, yet nonetheless comparatively smarter than a hoodie.

Bleisure wear is here to stay!
When it comes to separate tailored suits, you should be cautious with any material that’s either too shiny or thin. Pick materials that are beefier, increasingly textured and less-suit like that would throw a natural look to being worn with fabrics and casual outfits, like denim. In between the two extremes, viz. trousers and jeans, there lies the smart-casual chinos. If you choose a flat front and roll-ups, it throws a more casual look; pleats and creases, smarter. Tapering will check them from appearing too dad-like in guise. The emergence of athleisure wear has now lent a more casual, stylish and comfy look to trousers and chinos—featuring elasticised waistband and drawstring closure. These pair well with an untucked shirt, T-shirt or polo. Most companies invest in bleisure only for the business side of things, as their employees adopt a work dress code to dress their way up the social ladder. And that’s all good news even if you don’t care too much about visual elements.

CHANGE OF FORMAL TO SEMI-CASUAL WORK WEAR – WHAT HAS CHANGED?

We are well into 2021; the previous year devastated the opportunities of wearing a full suit to the workplace, owing to the outbreak of the pandemic that dominated the headlines in 2020. The good news is that formal wear is no longer the not so-fitting well stripes and checks of our pop’s time. Formal shirts can be linen, cotton blends, upmarket silks, with ties more of a collector’s piece. The ‘business casual look’ is on…

In most workplaces, it is super-formal from Monday through Thursday. In other words, the rule of the thumb is wearing full sleeves, trousers, button-down shirts with collars (ideally, no flashy colors and no prints), ties and leather shoes. Fridays can get bit lenient when you ditch the tie, try out with different prints, and perhaps go for khakis or chinos. This traditional mold is being fast replaced by more relaxed dress codes for employees to express themselves more freely, and create a work environment that is the best fit with the brand identity of the company. This said there are many HR Managers that still frown at the sight of executives wearing sleeveless attire, open-toed shoes and pants straying too far above the knee.

The workspace at all other times is a place to create and reflect your personal brand. Do you want to be tagged as the easy-to-go guy or the solemn guy or somewhere between the two extremities of the scale? You need to dress accordingly more often than not. There is also a growing school of thought that dressing casually effuses a sense of informality that can also easily relate to the mood of your team, thereby enhancing the quality of work delivered.

Change of Formal to Semi-Casual Work Wear – What has changed?
The work culture in the US is changing and so do careers, which in turn has led to dramatic shifts in work wear fashion, according to most menswear labels. The rise of alternative careers, in fact, has blurred the thin line between work wear and casual wear and, this, in turn, has transformed personal style at large. Even among the different sectors that allow smart casual wear through the week days, there are cardinal rules by default on work wear for events and client meetings. Subtle styling changes or addition of accessories can alter a formal outfit to look like a causal one. Layering is the most effective way to transform your look instantly. Shoes, scarves and other forms of accessories can produce a semi-formal look and, if that isn’t enough, convert a business casual wear to evening casual.

2021 IS UPON US, WHAT ARE THE WEDDING SUIT TRENDS FOR MEN?

The new year has popped out with a lot of promises and hope to behold. Men’s fashion has evolved a lot since 2020, a year that will be remembered for all the wrong reasons. Men’s suit trends too have been changing year on year, and I promise to give you the best of men’s suiting trends in this blog as I consciously do for all my clients, day in and out. From formal to more laid back, I’ll walk you through the range of choices. I’m sure you’ll be wanting to be dressed to the nines, and savor every minute of it. From sleek black dinner suits that gave many a Hollywood stars a run for their money to the more intricate, there’re no strings attached!

Dinner suit for weddings:
Dinner suits for weddings don’t always have to be black or midnight blue, the de facto suit colors of the wedding season. If it’s a monochromatic wedding (Black and white), I always recommend going for a black dinner suit. But if it’s a late afternoon or early evening wedding, then I suggest a midnight blue suit for an exceptional look. Alternatively, I also recommend emerald green or deep burgundy colored suits or you can ditch your dinner jacket for a smoking jacket.

Three Piece Wedding
Three-piece Wedding suit:
I wonder if there’s anything more graceful than a three-piece wedding suit. The biggest advantage is that a three-piece suit is more formal in nature, therefore if you get too hot, and want to appear chic and stylish when spending the night away, you, being the groom, can still hold sway over the onlookers, with the waistcoat on. And there is the classic prince of Wales check, which is another favorite as a wedding suit pattern and effuses a lot of elegance and suaveness, whatever be the style and theme of the wedding. If you are looking for a tailored wedding suit, but at crossroads to how you can create your dream wedding suit, simply talk to me for a one-on-one consultation. If you’re contemplating when is a good time to order a bespoke wedding suit, then you should start as early as possible so that there is no hustling around in the last minute. You need to plan things early—and select the fabric, color (based on the time of the event) and pattern—before deciding upon a wedding suit so that you get only the best fit on your big day.

THREE MEN’S OUTFIT STYLE FOR THE START OF A NEW YEAR

The new year is on, and even as we are approaching the end of January of this year already, let’s play out the cards in the form of three outfit styles. Forget the new year eve celebration, there is more to what these three unique style can do in terms of real style and substance. In terms of dress code—casual or formal, what have you planned to wear? No worries; this blog will have you literally covered with a few recommendations on how to welcome the fresh year and impress onlookers with a greater sense of panache and elegance.

Let the new year open up with different patterns, and an overcheck fabric comes as a default choice. You can mix and match your dress shirt and trouser’s opaque hues. If you feel a red suit is more overstated, why not try pairing a two-button burgundy suit instead with a shirt in saturated tones and accessories that are contrasting. Undoubtedly, the stylish and chicest way to welcome the new year!

If you think pyjamas represent only informal boundaries, think again. Here is a casual outfit for you to enjoy when spending time at the pool or evening fire lounge area with your best pals and a bottle of Brule wine: a soft flannel shirt teamed up with a casual blazer or cozy pull jacket, the most preferred item for the more relaxed and laid back folk. And if you don’t want to come out of your comfort zone, you can go for a soft and classic cable-knit sweater. You can pick between a pair of chinos, jeans or soft velvet trousers to wear underneath.

The period that marks the passage of time from 2020 to 2021 can also be an occasion for embracing style and elegance, and the most formal event of the year to celebrate masculinity with a lot of grace and elegance. If you’re looking to wear a black-tie dress code, you can either stick to the conventions and wear a black tuxedo, an ageless classic, or go bolder with a blue tux. Whatever be the case, always wear a white shirt, and pair with cufflink and a bow tie, in addition to a satin sash. If, instead, the dress code demands a less formal arrangement, the most recommended option is to put on a white shirt, blue suit and accessorise with a satin tie. For a more audacious attempt, go for a satin bow tie, following the variegated celebrations of the occasion.

LAYERING YOUR OUTFIT FOR THE WINTER

One of the most effective outwears for the winter is a heavier wool sport coat. When it comes to sport coats, I view them as jackets instead of “half a suit”. This makes them an easy-to-go outfit with the rest. They will definitely give you a sharper look even if the outfit comes with a lot of casual elements such as white leather sneakers or denim.

If you’re looking for an extra bit of warmth, go for sports coat in tweed or winter-weight wool. For an even smarter and sharper casual look, use a down vest or V-neck sweater for layering your outfit. Under extremely cold climatic conditions, you may have to layer with multiple outwear that can provide you a decent coverage and insulation. If you stay in a more temperate area, it will suffice if you just wear a quilted jacket or pea coat (plus layers in addition). On transitional days, or just when you’re looking for added warmth over a lightweight sweater, a denim jacket offers a superb classic look. Try to keep it casual or even wear a tie with your denim, if you style your outfit the right way.

Athleisure is not just meant for the summers, but can be conceptualized for a casual and comfy appeal even during the winters. Try out any of the sweaters and joggers from your closet for a sharper and cooler look. If you think beyond the suit, a leather jacket is a worthwhile investment in your wardrobe. Similar to a suit, there is something exciting about wearing a properly fitted leather jacket. Or in other words, you can best describe yourself as a badass.

Coming to the fabric selection of winter outfits, I recommend wool flannel as it is a warm and comfy suiting fabric. It is to be noted that 100 per cent wool cloth has different weights, with 12 oz the minimum you’d want for any winter suit. If it gets too light, you are in all “in-season” fabric weight category. That can also do, but strictly depending on how cold and chilly it gets where you live, you may well have to layer up with different pieces. If you are buying ready-made suits or even made-to-measure or bespoke, you most likely needn’t have to be too picky about choosing a specific weight as they’re classified by season. Therefore, simply look for spring/summer or fall/winter suiting fabrics, and you’re good to go. Once you start thinking bespoke or going custom, that’s when you go for specific fabric and associated weights.

SMART MEN’S SHIRTS & PANTS INCLUDING MID-LAYERS FOR THE WINTER

Finally, the winters have arrived, and you need to know about dressing to nicety and sporting a sharp and smart style even in the bitingly chilly cold. Let’s start off with colors—darker and richer tones including navy, camel, charcoal, eggplant purple, burgundy, forest green are the default choice. When it comes to fabrics, a heavier weight and more texture material is preferable. As for the fitting, clothes should start out slim and gradually turn more capacious.

Winter fashion for men play out in the form of a wide range of wools, heavier cottons, thicker knits, woven shirts, etc. Apparently, all layers generally are thicker to keep one warm and comfy and ward off the cold.

When it comes to casual clothing, I recommend a stylish look (as imparted by below) for a casual and dressier use:
# Denim
# Chinos
#Twill & flannel shirts
# Substantial wool, cashmere &cotton
# Heavy canvas & wool outerwear

Generally, the fitting is no way different from every other season. However, I suggest slim and fitted style, but not overly tight. There should be enough for you to move around. There’s a catch however here: in winter, we tend to layer our outfit—underwear, sweater, button-up shirt, coat and think thermal underwear—therefore, the fit and thickness of every layer must be pretty much strategic. On top of it, outermost layer usually lends a relaxed fit, so that you can have rooms for the layers underneath. Who would want to wear a peacoat so slim such that you won’t be able to put on anything more than a button-up shirt underneath?

Winter Shirts:
When it comes to Chambray, it is neither a fall-nor a winter-specific shirt, to be precise. Denim, on the other hand, can be easily worn throughout the year. Therefore, don’t trade your favorite Chambray for any sweatshirt or sweater; continue to wear through the winter months. This said your regular Oxford cloth is quite substantial, and comes as an excellent option for winter. I also recommend flannel and twill shirts as appropriate for men’s winter fashion. Both formal and casual options are available in both fabrics.

Winter Pants:
Go with denim if you want to wear it casually pairing it with sneakers and a T-shirt, and more formally teamed up with a sport coat, dress shirt and loafers throughout the winter season.

Winter Mid-layers:
During the winters, go for a mid-layer made of light coat or jack, alternating one heavy coat. Two warm layers enable better regulation of temperature than just wearing a shirt and a thick, heavy coat. If it gets too cold and chilly outside, you’re left with only one option, and that is to wear a coat with no mid-layer. Aesthetically, you can create a more interesting look using multiple layers. This means sweaters and vests are good at not only regulating body temperate better, but add an extra layer of oomph to your winter outfit.

FALL IS ALMOST DONE, BUT THE COLORS LIVE ON

Men’s fashion gets no better than appropriately pairing with the unexpected to create an eye-popping look. We are approaching the fag end of fall, but the season colors live on and continue to inspire us. No wonder autumn is all about vibrant and exuberant palette of colors. A mix of traditionalism and the right color suits will put you in good stead this season.
Light Gray Suit:
A default choice for fall is a light gray suit, a perfect twist to the classic gray, as it can be adapted for more formal occasions or dressed down for a casual set-up. Gray can complement well with a plethora of colors—whether bold or subtle. I recommend wearing a light gray suit with plaid or pinstripes that’d give you an edge over others.
Navy suit
Navy Blue Suit:
A classic suit color, navy, is perfect for fall outfit. You can spice up the suit by wearing jewel tones. You can even heighten the visual look by including some texture to the suit fabric. A navy blue suit can stand out whilst still lending a professional look. If you’re looking for a more vintage-inspired feel, then this is for you.
 
Royal Blue Suit:
If you’ve a special occasion to attend or preside a key meeting, where you’re required to make a strong statement, a royal blue suit is all you need. Don’t make it too loud: wear a plain sheet underneath; maintain an accent color for your tie such as a subdued golden yellow. The royal blue suit color is guaranteed to enhance your style and confidence, and turn a few eyeballs towards you.
Charcoal Gray Suit:
A charcoal gray suit is an effective mark of sophistication and intrigue. Trust me, you’d look like a born to be professional that demand attention. The fall season is the most perfect for charcoal gray suit as you can accessorize it with just about anything and still look formal.
Black Suit:
There’s an air of mystery around a black suit and the fall season offers you the leeway to be both mysterious and elegant. Any man’s wardrobe is inherently incomplete without a sharp-looking black suit. Accessorize the suit with a black tie for a cover or luxurious look.
We would love to dress you up with the best fall suit that fits your style and theme. We specialize in custom, bespoke professional menswear, and offer nothing short of the best experience with an emphasis on the finest of details. Make your town talk of your new-found fashion sense this fall.

THE ART OF LAYERING FOR MEN THIS FALL

Let’s say I was able to convince you to layer your outfit this fall. How do you go about this?

 

The art of layering for men this fall
Let’s say I was able to convince you to layer your outfit this fall. How do you go about this?
# When it comes to visible layers, your undershirt sometimes can be flimsy and shoddy, but never an issue as long as it is discreet. Go for a simple sleeveless cotton shirt, extremely comfy and practical under-layer. If the under-shirt is seemingly tacky, then this isn’t for you.
# Do you have your untucked shirt tails jutting out of your sweater? It isn’t a great look at all. You shouldn’t try this out unless you desperately want to. In other words, never go for a blazer or sports jacket that is visibly longer than the coat on top of it during chiller months.

Pink shirt
# The bright colors conundrum: If you’re provided with a palette of colors to choose from, ensure you select ones that share similarities between a couple of them, and this also implies that only one or two should be vividly bright shades. Wearing a hot pink shirt with green trousers and accessorizing the combo with a lemon yellow scarf is an over-the-top attempt at layering! Allow a couple of things to do the talking, and mute the rest of the outfit. The color difference offers a lot of “pop” on its own without any brightness taking everything forward.
# Alter the degree of pattern brightness from the lightest to strongest. That is to mean in a steady manner. If your topcoat is a classic herringbone tweed with an abundance of mottled color (heavy pattern), go for a muted sports jacket and a shirt of solid color so that the pattern loses its way systematically towards your core. You can also alternate with a plaid shirt; then, put on a jacket or sweater having a slightly visible texture with a solid, soft overcoat on top of it. Whatever be your choice, the transition is subtle and graduated rather than an off the cuff, unsettling back-and-forth.

# There is a practical function of every layer. Inner layers should be light and breathable against the skin, and draw moisture away from it. Coming to shirt layers, they should offer a decent visual anchor functioning as a contrasting layer above others, and be soft and breathable. Middle layers are generally jacket layers, but could also allow a cardigan or vest as a replacement. Outer layers or coat layers are meant for outdoors, and they include wool overcoats, trench coats, peacoats and almost any blazer coat. Shell layers are thin, protective outfits for inclement weather—and anything from Gore-Tex jacket to a waxed cotton field jacket can be choices. I think I’ve got you literally covered—an undershirt, a base shirt, a sweater or jacket, a topcoat, and if required a shell, you’re ready to go.

Shirts for men that always step out in style

Are you a man for all seasons? Do you stand up to high standards of fashion? Do the change of seasons and shifting tides of fashion intrigue you? This said do you have to burn a hole in your pockets every single time? Not necessarily. Fashion to me is abiding, can be cost-effective, and stocking up on items that build your closet in a step-by-step manner. How often do we overlook the importance of wearing the right shirt? This blog will serve as a primer on what shirts are appropriate at different levels of formal and casual occasions.

 

As a professional bespoke tailor, I classify shirts as either formal or casual based on the proper fit including the collar, fabric and pattern, in addition to with what you accessorize with.

 

Formal is “in”:
For professionals, irrespective of any fields or majors, wearing a crisp, well-tailored shirt that effuses a sense of trust and confidence in the office and elsewhere sends a strong signal that they are business-ready and serious about the outcomes.

 

The proper fit:

The fit of a shirt, though highly subjective, is what makes you ideally confident and feel comfy throughout the day, without leaning to fashion norms. While I have highlighted personal comfort on many occasions, I do believe there’s always a right way to flatter your body contour. Slim fit applies for lean and toned body silhouettes. Standard fit is ideal for the roly-poly men out there.

 

Shirts for men that always step out in style
Differentiating Formals & Casuals:
As I had discussed already, factors such as collar and fabric differentiate a formal shirt from a casual one. Let me break it down for you, starting from Collars. In terms of structure, Collars can be Formal, Classic, Spread, Wing tip and Club. One side chest pockets are tagged as formal, whereas double side pockets are considered informal. Formal Sleeve is of different types including Cuff- French, Double barrel cuff and Single barrel cuff. When it comes to hem, straight hems are a regular for untucked shirts; anything else is fine for office space. Keep the tone fabrics to a minimum without anything eye soaring or bold or loud. While all fabrics work well at the workplace, remember not all prints are appropriate. Formal shirts demand Classic prints including Linen, Solids, Checks and Formals.

 
 

Accessorizing your shirt:

Accessorize your shirt with the right statement pieces such as cufflink, tie or even a luxury pen to look seemingly fresh and spontaneous. Remember to match all your accessories with the right colors to that of a trim on the shirt, or go for tone-on-tone accessories for a toned-down appeal. Either way, I will leave it to you to take the call.

 

Made-to-Leisure? Bespoke tailors in the US are now making inroads into Custom Casual Wear space

Gone are the days when the idea of tailoring or creating bespoke wear is the default pick for the best-dressed or most successful men, yet of tailors who create men casual wear on a par with high-street fashion feel, there were only a handful of them. However, 2020 is the year of millennial or Gen Y fashion. Crafting comfy and relaxed staples for the millennials including polos, knit shirts and field jackets—and, particularly those trending in the WFH (work-from-home) age, robes and boxers—that are not only available ready-to-wear, but also bespoke or even made-to-measure. The biggest advantages of bespoke tailoring, of course, include personalized services and embodying the exact fit of high-end fashion, cut to the chase.

 

Today’s bespoke tailors offer a supply of stylish made-to measure outfit for almost every occasion: pique shirts, everyday trousers and suede trousers and other semi-casual wear. Tailors in the US known only for bespoke suit are expanding their horizon to give space to relaxed dress codes this fall—from down jackets to sweaters and jogger pants. There are others that make bespoke five-pocket trousers, besides fulfilling orders for boxer shorts, polo shirts and pajamas, customable denim and even polos. They have also expanded onto an extensive range of hoodies, sneakers, tracksuits, cashmere, ultra-fine wool knits, etc. And now fancy that! If not then change is where it’s at.

 

The best part of a casual bespoke product is that it’s in no way different from the readymade wear. And what’s more than choice of fabric, initial fitting, design specifications and any adjustments, if necessary to be made? Mobile tailors show up right at your doorstep for taking measurements, provide virtual consultations too (due to the ongoing pandemic), and have the finished product dispatched later. Not only is casual made-to-measure comparatively painless, its fit is also smart and chic in every aspect, though a few bucks extra won’t burn your fingers. Now, how do you like that?

 

Five outfits for Men this Fall

“Fashion is about dressing according to what’s fashionable. Style is more about being yourself.” —Oscar de la Renta

 

It is said that fashion is temporary, but style is permanent. This fall is no exception. Fall Fashion may come and go, but it is how you style yourself that really matters; how about investing in a selected range of fall outfit? After all, the season of fall is about vibrant colors and cool breezes, the go-between the hot, humid summers and biting winter cold, or may be mashing the two together!

 

There are a plethora of fall outfit options for men, but out here we bring you a few fall attire ideas, considering your existing stock in your wardrobe; it doesn’t mean you need to go for a whole set of new clothes specially for fall, may be some you have to.

 

It’s Layering Season:
Layering is an excellent way to counter the fall weather that is so unpredictable in many ways. Wearing different thin layers instead of one thick coat gives you a masculine appeal without the usual bundle feel.

 

Layering options: (a word of caution though, not to use all in the same attire): Polos, Henleys, Waistcoats & Odd vests, Long-sleeve T-shirts, Cardigans & Sweaters and Scarves.

 

A time for Knitwear:
Knitwear comes with a host of benefits; women subconsciously would like to touch and feel textured clothing. Knitwear makes an essential part of ‘the rugged yet comfy’ fall look. Ensure the knits you wear are well-fitted and not baggy. Pick thin and smooth fits as they are better for layering compared to the large-sized and bulky ones.

 

Layering options: Cardigans (regular collar & shawl), Sweater vest, Half-zip mock neck, Cable knit sweater, Button mock knecks and Sweaters (v-neck & crew)

 

Five outfits for Men this Fall
Outwear:
When it comes to layering, outwear is only optional but accounts for a nice finishing touch.
Layering options: Topcoats, Waxed cotton jackets, Down coats, Pea coats, Overcoats, Leather jackets, Parkas
Fall Color Palette:
With the earth changing hues, your fall outfit can change palette too..
Color Palette: Navy, Browns, Burgundy, Olive Greens, Burnt Oranges & Gold

 

Boots as accessories:
Fall signals the time to pack up your dirty white sneakers, coming out of the summer, and go for a pair of boots. You have every reason to do so as they are stylish, and protect you from the cold and rainy weather.
Though there is no rule per se that layering is restricted to only three things, more than three would definitely make you look ungainly!